Open Sky

January 1, 2011 I paddled with Robin out of Victoria Harbour and into Juan de Fuca Strait in our sea kayaks -- the sun was brilliant, the air cool -- it was a fresh new year. We shook our heads at the passing of time which seemed to be speeding up. But the beauty of the Juan de Fuca Strait soon made us wake up to the moment of open sky streatching out to the Olympic Mountains -- which were rocketing to the blue and orange light, snow pack thick and reflecting the white back to us and all around.

As we paddled out of the harbour we passed the Sir Wilfred Laurier -- the last time I saw the Laurier was in a small Bay off Dowager Island in the Centeral Coast -- me and Jonas were getting started on another long day of paddling as we made our way down the coast from Alaska to Vancouver Island in our kayaks.

The Sir Wilfrid Laurier is a light icebreaker and tender part of the Canadian Coast Guard, It was built in 1986 by Canadian Shipbuilding, Collingwood, Ontario, Canada and the ship now based out of Victoria. In the summer the Laurier sometimes patrols the arctic doing science related work.

Robin and I passed 2 other Coast Guard vessels -- the red paint on the hulls shining brightly -- it made me feel proud to be Canadian. As we paddled past the ships we imagined the vast coast lines they had explored and wondered what it would have been like to have had a carrer in the Coast Guard.

As we came around the cruise ship terminal we checked out the new first nations Land and Sea Murial on the north side of the Ogden Point Break Water -- the art was so intriguing.

The mural concept was inspired by the Chiefs of both Songees and Esquimalt First Nations who sit on Harbour Authorities Board of Directors. The project helps foster understanding for the rich history and culture of the two local First Nations, while providing economic opportunities for youth from Songhees, Esquimalt , Cowichan and Greater Victoria.

The first part of the mural depicts a narrative of the relationship coast salish people had with land and sea and shares elements of traditional South Coast Salish culture, and honours the knowledge and wisdom passed on by their ancestors.

The sun and moon designs convey this connection as the moon represents "grandmother" and the sun represents "grandfather". The first design introduces this theme stating "these are my grandparents, these are my ancestors". The mural was designed by Coast Salish artists Butch Dick and Darlene Gait and is being painted by a team of 6 youth artists.

As we headed out past the Light House at the end of the break water, the pilot boat came around. As we were on a collision course someone had to shift -- "might makes right" as they say -- so we shifted closer to the break water while the Captain moved right. The pilot boat heads out into the strait everytime a frieghter heads in or out to the Pacific -- its needed in order to safely get the frieghters through the narrow passages leading to Vancouver, BC and other coastal ports.

As we headed out into more open water we caught the strong ebb current flowing towards Sax Point in Esquimalt -- and being the Buddhists we are -- we started talking about the eight fold path, the 4 noble truths and the various walls we felt we had hit on our practice and lives.

Our conversation eventually shifted to 2 paddlers in the distance -- we suspected it was Gary and Janette -- because of Gary's bright red paddling jacket and Janettes yellow kayak. New Years wishes were exchanged off one of the aids to navigation near the old World War 1 aritillery and observation placement at Work Point. It was delightful and serindipitous to meet them in the gorgous element of water and spaciousness of sky.

As we headed off in seperate directions a sea lion surfaced near by. Some seals lounged on the rock near the Rock Climbing Beach and we paddled back in silence until a nimble river otter broke the surface in front of our kayaks. Mergansers and other sea birds were landing near by as we paddled back into the harbour. It was a welcoming way to start off 2011!

Sun Star at Todd Inlet by Sea Kayak

April 27-28, 2010
Five paddlers joined me and Joe -- a part time kayak instructor and float plane pilot -- on a 2 day kayaking adventure this weekend. We taught the group how to navigate -- that is to read tide and current tables, read a chart, to use longitude and latitude to locate ourselves on this precious but small planet in this amazing but insignificant solar system within this one gallaxy amongst billions...reading the weather from a synopisis of high and low pressure systems off of the gulf of Alaska..understanding local forcasts for Vancouver Island South to the Strait of Juan de Fuca, and off into space -- earth, roating around sun, moon around sun, creating a massive tidal wave that builds as it surges into the local shoreline of Songes, Saanich and so many more places that I'd like to know along this delightful coast. We developed the student's ability do a variety of rescues including the fast "Tripple P" -- that focuses on maintaining the tenuous temperature of the human body...37 degrees is so easily cooled in the 10 degree water....then we went onto a day paddle and the focus on the most challenging stroke of all: the forward stroke...try dipping that paddle in the 3700km of Haida Gwaii, Vancouver Island and the Centeral Coast...and onto weather coxing remedies, trasit lines and how to avoid confrontations with motor boaters and large sea lion herds -- in the end what caught the student's attention was a tremendously large sun star the great white shark of the intertidal zone.

Jordan River Surf

It was a fierce day of surfing with sets coming in on a steady basis, up to 9 footers (tomorrow they will grow like a fish tale to become eleven or twelve’s). We saw a nice green point break and excellent green waves on the west beach. Everything was firing off with something for all – abundance, peace and harmony.

The sun shed her warmth through the afternoon – another beautiful West Coast day. We may as well been surfing in a prairie sea with the vast sky and waves of grain flowing east – wind blowing over the Rockies and down to the plains.

The Olympic Mountains across the great Juan de Fuca Strait struck out against the sky and the sun way, way off in the distance provided so much light.

Looking up to the clear cuts in the hills – we relaxed with the knowledge that Jordan River will be protected and accessible to all – with the decision made yesterday to create a park! This place has been through so much – the river runs through a huge pipe, through a dam and into a log dump – work provided to many families, my family included. May the connection between surf, forest and estuary return!

Greenland Kayaking – Crystal Pool

January 23, 2010
Terry’s Greenland kayak was home to quite a few spiders and other insects until yesterday when that boat came to life in our course on Greenland paddling through Ocean River Sports. Working with Mike, we taught 3 students how to static brace, do low and high brace sculls and the elegant butterfly role amongst others. The course is new and we’re working on building a strong community of Greenland paddlers. Mike loves Greenland style paddling and has developed his skills and knowledge over the years – which I have had the benefit of learning from through our training and planning sessions together.

Jordan River Surf

January 22, 2010
Drove out to Jordan River with Gary for a late afternoon surf with a stop for a V0S 1N0 (aka a double Americano) at the Stick Coffee Shop in Sooke – it was about 10 Celsius, no wind, clear blue light, and the tide was high. Just two surfers out at the point break and one standing boarder who was getting really long rides.

Gary stuck to the near shore breaks next to the bridge footing. It was easy for him to catch short rides on steep waves and then hop the river current around to the start of the break again – like an escalator. He was paddling a new retro boat called the Remix – it looks like a creek boat but less volume and is meant to draw on old school features found in early 90’s style white water kayaks – with longer and rounder hulls.

I sampled everything the surf offered – the point break, the outer breaks and the near shore. The point break was firing off with some 6 footers and at one point I remember being inside a big curler, looking out through what appeared to be chaotic and confused but clear water towards the point where on-lookers stared out into the beauty and expansiveness of Juan de Fuca Strait – what feeling, being able to breath inside a wave – a great place to find wisdom, kindness and a sense of bewilderment.

Along the outer breaks I met up with Brandon who said he had been surfing at Jordan River for the past three years on a standing paddle board – the board is wide and long and the surfer uses an extended paddle for propulsion, steering and bracing. We talked while waiting for sets to arrive. Brandon talked about the changes he’d noticed in the area – the changing land use and logging in the area, tighter restrictions on access, relationships between different groups who surf in the area and so on.

Looking out long the length of Juan de Fuca Strait from the entrance to the Pacific Ocean back along the Olympics and down past Port Angels towards the East Juan de Fuca I felt at home. The snow line was clearly visible below snow-covered peaks.

Brandon said he wanted to be the first to paddle across Juan de Fuca Strait on his board and it made me reflect back on the crossing I did with Beth-Anne in 2002.

Crag X Climbing Gym

January 2, 2010
It has been ten years of climbing! What a sweet way to relate to the world between solid rock and empty space – so many experiences with friends in nature: the sights of raptors hovering about the crag where it meets the sky as clouds move past in a parade of meaninglessness, meeting up with beautiful rattlesnakes and big horn sheep in Skaha Bluffs, swimming naked in the lake next to Cress Creek after a day of sport climbing, the big rappel into the air off the Monkey Face in Smith Rocks, making hand puppets using the fire light flickering off of the boulders at camp in Joshua Tree while hearing the sounds of Coyotes in the distance.

I met up Deane and Kerri at Crag X today – both have embraced climbing in one form or another for a large part of their lives and there seems to be no end in sight for either of them; they’re both strong climbers even when they’re not training – both are have confidently climbed in the 5.12 and 5.13 range which for many climbers is a dream for another lifetime. There is so much beauty and energy in the many ways they encounter the activity and this can be seen in their unique and bold moves and problem solving.

Their climbing style and even their personalities seem to balance the sense that nothing is really solid with the view that everything is fixed. This way of being recognizes and accepts that everything is changing – our bodies, the holds, our relationship, our identity, the gear. They’re naturally light hearted because they are for the most part letting go into the moment when they're climbing and this translates into joyful lives even when they're not climbing.

Whiffen Spit

December 26, 2009
Michael, mom and me went for a hike out along Whiffen Spit – the great protector between the feisty Strait of Juan de Fuca and the inner placid waters of Sooke Harbour. The spit is a narrow, kilometer and half point of land extending into Sooke Inlet on the west side of Vancouver Island. In some places, its very thin and ends at an aid to navigation – its not uncommon to see the swift moving water of the inlet emptying out into the strait. It creates a semi-natural barrier that protects Sooke Harbor. The photo above was taken by a kindred spirit Jodi -- who photographed the coast line from Washington State to Glacier Bay Alaska hanging out of the side of a helicopter in full immersion gear just a few hundred feet of the ground as part of a near shore research project. A lot of her work focused on the recovery of Prince William Sound after the Valdez oil spill.

As we walked we came across a decorated Christmas tree – we stopped to pay homage to this Sooke tradition – that mysteriously manifests itself and fades every year in this location. Technically, spits are created naturally from the ebb of the ocean currents – it appears to be a permanent fixture but like everything is constantly shifting, wearing away and rebuilding.

As we traversed the gravel and grass the wind blew hard out of the north making the bench in the lee, facing the strait, a welcomed resting place. As the sun’s rays warmed our faces we looked out at the entrance and out to near by islands. I thought back to other times paddling by here with friends – with Ingrid, and Jergen along rugged East Sooke Park, Jodi in Sooke Harbour and with Kirsten as we headed back to Victoria in 2001 after paddling around Vancouver Island.

Amongst the gnarled driftwood was sea grass and small shore pines. Michael and mom stopped to look back towards Sooke noticing the the long board walk that I hope will someday stretch all the way down to the Sooke River – what a walk that will be if it ever happens. Looking back out into strait we could see the snow-capped Olympic Mountains to the west and a lone seal swimming amongst the sea birds and bull kelp.

The Static Brace

December 12, 2009
This was one of the first kayak skills training sessions I have done in years. For until 2008 my main focus was training for adventure and mountain bike and trail races – running, cycling and paddling was where my energy and time went.

My intension in this session was to do a static brace and review some kayak roles – expand my repertoir. I am scheduled to teach an up-coming Greenland course, but all that was on my mind tonight was my inability to do a static brace – it was stressing me out – what a beginner I thought.

Working with my mind – with its never ending thoughts, demands, desires, judgements, analysis, never ending discursiveness…. My mind is focused on the limitations that severe hip joint osteoarthritis poses for me, will I ever be able to static brace, what are my new limitations and why me, why me…the static brace is one of the skills in the course curriculum but the curriculum is already about working with the clinging and struggle to recognize that there’s nothing to hold onto. The changes in my body and my “trying” – to learn the static brace – are good teachers – struggling with the circumstances I am finding myself in…tight, closed, fixed…afraid.

Daniel offered to give me some lessons – he usually welcoming people to the pool, tracking drop ins and moving boats. I had no idea he was a highly skilled instructor too – when he paddled by to offer some instruction I was less then hopeful – the limitations of a tight and fixed mind and body already had me planning for the next pool session or 3 or 6….but in no time I was easily floating in the water…to my disbelief and joy.

The Thursday Morning Paddle

December 10, 2009
Me and Gary broke out our dusty racing kayaks and finally headed out to Juan de Fuca Strait after an 8 month break. Thank god he was into some interval training and more of a race pace – I finally got my heart rate up. Its been a year and a half since I stopped training with Hicham’s Ladies at Oak Bay Track and Club Mud where we trained on the many rain forest trails around the peninsula. The cardio workouts were so textured and flowing – breath in, breath out…

I knew something was different about this paddle as soon as I saw Gary warming up – he looked more serious, more focused and there was a sense of urgency about getting started. We started with a warm up towards the West Bay and out into the Strait.

The tippy race kayak made me a bit nervous as we headed into the choppier strait with the cold water and no thermal protection. Soon we were doing short sprints as float planes landed near by and Great Blue Herons fished off of the rocks. Across the way a freighter was loading large cruisers – probably from people touring the coast from Asia or Europe. One new one boat built in Seattle was being shipped to Hong Kong.

As a Helijet flew over head just a hundred feet up I thought about what the people on board thought about us – seeing us kayaking – were they business professionals or government ministers dreaming of paddling freedom and encounters with nature or perhaps they’re just wanting to move their bodies in the fresh and spacious Pacific air?

More intervals and sprints on the way back to the Ocean River Sports dock. It was a cold morning – we couldn’t use the hose to clean our boats at the end – but it was so good to be in the sun and to train with another…athlete…

Climbing Red Rock Canyon, Nevada

November 16, 2009
We started the day at "Red Springs" on our final day of climbing and then went on to "Tuna and Chips" – off of "Second Pullout - towards the end of the day."

“Physical Graffiti” is the sixth album by Led Zeppelin. It was a successful double album that went platnum over 16 times. Released in 1975, Physical Graffiti was inspirational on the 2 pitch climb we did of the same name. Moving up the easy and well-protected crack, over a small roof, I set up a belay on a small ledge 130 feet up where the crack ends, at the bolted anchor. Stepping to the right into the second pitch, Robin followed the crack coming up from “Over the Hill” – and leading another 160 feet. While the pitch I did was rated at 5.6, we both agreed that the second pitch was a little more difficult.

We did a rappel off to the side of the climb down into a gully then scrambled down to the base of “Riding Hood Wall” – aptly named after the beautifully colored rock.

Heading over to “Tuna and Chips” – where Robin led a number of run out sport climbs – we scrambled through a large boulder field. Along the way Robin – who could no longer be described as a Billy Goat and for reasons that are hard to fathom, other than a desire to switch from climbing to spelunking – squirmed his way 15 feet into the center of 4 huge boulders – through a 12-inch tunnel-like gap. With another 12 feet to go he became a human camming device unable to move either forward or back ward. After an exhausting 10 or 15 minutes he finally managed to chimney up to a wider gap and tunnel his way to freedom.

Soon we were climbing at "Tuna and Chips," finishing some final routes before heading back to camp for another fantastic dinner and plans to head into Las Vegas for a final day.

Climbing Red Rock Canyon, Nevada

November 14, 2009
We hiked out of Red Springs last night in the dark -- through large boulder fields towards the bright lights of Las Vegas. Thirty five years ago Las Vegas was just a whimper of light surrounded by wild desert. Now the boundary that separates the park from the city is just a short walk away -- near by are casinos and shopping malls. Creating another paradox between wilderness and the urban environment in a city of paradoxes.

Last night's dinner was bightingly cold, especially with wind chill -- despite the fire, hot curry and India Pale Ale -- everything froze up. I wore 4 layers of clothing -- no need to worry about buying more ice for the cooler.

Today's sun was welcomed, we were at First Creek Canyon near Mount Wilson. At the pullout, numerous pelotons of road riders raced by on their lengthy none stop rides through he dessert roads -- one had 40 plus riders -- I longed to join them.

We hiked in about 3 kilometers to the "Romper Room" area -- just next to the stunning "Amphitheater." Robin -- the billy goat -- clipped his way across the length of the amphitheater -- leaping across a 50 foot gap while I took photos of the rock (in the photo above you can just makse out Robin walking the ledge).

We worked the near by 5.7 trad routes, while watching a team work the 3 pitches of "Black Magic" -- a stunning 5.8 route that we hope to do on our next trip. The routes were stellar with a bit of exposure. Long climbing routes are so freeing and offer the most joy in terms of adventure - just pure exuberance.

We both agreed that our humble efforts at climbing have allowed us to truly appreciate the stunning accomplishments of the real athletes who practice their art on these walls and they do this in virtual obscurity from the public -- makes me wonder what climbing means? ...an awakening, a form of contemplation, a bold statement of the preciousness of life?

On the trail home we came across a spring -- lots of small animals and birds near by. A small group of Burros appeared further on -- they were part of the settlement history of the area -- used to pack gear and supplies for miners -- and after they were no longer needed they were let go and became wild.

Climbing Red Rock Canyon, Nevada

November 12, 2009
Our 3rd day of climbing. Today, we're at "Cut Your Teeth" way up a canyon in Red Springs -- light rain last night and the sandstone is a bit crumbly. We're not sure if its just the route we're on or if its the result of last night's rain.

We're just practicing trad skills on easy routes. The weather reports are mixed: local reports say more rain, but NOAA (the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration) reports cooler temperatures and wind is coming. Rangers and local climbers say the rock is fine. We we're hoping for heat and sun after leaving rain drenched Vancouver Island -- the huge low pressure systems affecting the BC Coast are making their presence known here too. And, when it rains down here the rock is much less reliable (two thirds as strong) -- its both a safety and ethical issue -- in terms of damaging the rock.

Yesterday, we were at "Black Corridor" -- a popular sport climbing area. We we were on 5.9-10b routes -- I wish we could could say 5.12. Lots of other climbers are near by from all over the USA, Canada, and other countries. Best part was the 10b lead by Robin -- the route required some fun technical moves.

Red Rock Canyon is for the most part a 25 kilometer stretch of Aztec sandstone cliffs that towaer as high as 3000 feet. The area is the result of massive folding and faulting that occured over 135 milllion years ago. Within the area lay an enormous variety of climbs from short crags to 2000 foot big walls.

We met up with Matt and Laura in Black Corridor. Matt and I worked together kayak guiding 10 yeas ago along coastal Vancouver Island, he now lives in the Yukon with Laura -- visiting Red Rocks for a bit of sun and warmth.

Our first day of climbing was spent doing sport at "Magic Bus," along "Second Pullout." Lots of beautiful hiking on the way -- lots of wonderful scrambling amongst huge boulders and steep craggy areas also. These crags were overlooked in the early days of Red Rocks as the focus was on the bigger walls, but now the area is almost completely developed.

Red Rocks is the 4th most popular climbing area in the USA. Lots of tourists come by for a hike -- people looking for a bit of nature outside of Las Vegas. They basically drive along a great road ring that circles Red Rock Canyon and pull over along the various cragging areas. Some people just pull over to look out at the big beautiful red and tanned rocks -- where they can catch glimpses of climbers and scrambles alike.

...Robin is about to start a trad climb so I am off to belay now...

...that was a fun climb with lots of exposure -- we can see the city of Las Vegas -- an oasis of light with the Luxor's white beam shooting high into the night sky -- the sun light is barely present, but we still have a few more climbs in us. We'll be hiking out in the dark but the extra climbs will be worth it.

Kayak Rolling and the Crystal Pool

October 24, 2009 (Victoria, BC)
Driving the 6 wheel Dodge 3500 with a trailer full of kayaks through town was a lot of fun -- we were heading to the Crystal Pool for a kayak rolling class – its diesel engine sounded like a real truck – making our company vans – Misty and the Silver Bullet – light weights – for those who remember -- it was in a way reminiscent of Max – that crappy old but tough truck was on its last legs back in 2001 when I drove it to Tofino on a warm summers evening to teach a surfing class – but the truck made you feel like a man! Although I don't think I will be moving to Alberta to work in the oil patch anytime soon...

Eight students signed up for the class at the Crystal tonight – the pool that once seems so vast and mysterious to me…as a child my brothers and I would shimmy our way around the edge – unable to swim but venturing into the deep end…and then staring up through the huge domes, we would look up at the sky as the light flickered in the water.

Me and Gary were determined to get all 8 students rolling and after a few hours of practice...everyone had at least rolled once on their own.

Adventure Therapy with Families

October 24, 2009 (Mt. McGuire, BC)
Worked with Dave and Katy on an adventure therapy hike for 4 families in East Sooke Park – focusing on the theme of substance use, we hiked up Mt. McGuire and did the experiential activities along the way. It was a sunny warm day – the wet forest floor was rich in plant life especially fall mushrooms of all kinds – the day before the winds were up to 40knots and the day after it rained like crazy so we were really lucky. We did a variety of activities making links between nature, challenges and families using systems theory, the nature spot exercise to heighten self awareness, and various other adventure based activities including one trust activity using a rope web to lift a participant off the ground. It was totally fun and great to work with such skills helpers. Atop Mt. McGuire we could see the centeral Juan de Fuca Strait with the bold Olympic Mountains, visible through the clouds.

Surf and Surge Sea Kayak Course

October 16-18, 2009 (Port Renfrew, BC)
Spent the weekend teaching 5 students how to paddle into sea caves, along surge channels, through sea arches and into surf. Gary and Brian helped out – a strong team! We were able to teach a wide variety of strokes and practical exercises in the San Jaun and Gordon River Estuaries while the evenings were spent at the Coastal Kitchen – they're Bison Burgers are so earthy! And the hot tub at the Trail Head Resort was very soothing – surrounded by native plants and was a real joyful soaking in the west coast rain. You can check out last fall's class at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ILpyeHcOjA

Tofino Surf

Thanks Giving Weekend 2009
We arrived at Zoe's North Beach residence in the night after driving through the long twisty road to the junction between Ucluelet and Tofino. As we drove past Long Beach the sound of surf was drowned out by our laughter and music. We arrived late but the house was full of warm greetings and beautiful people.

The next day we discovered someone had broken into our cars to lighten our earthly load of material things -- the frustrations and disbelief soon transformed into gratitude and concern for their well being.

Early Morning Dawn Patrol -- the sky was fiery red as it rose up from behind Cox's Bay. The waves crashing in along this beautiful beach-- giving up many long rides and reminding us how precious life it is -- you know, live each day fully.

Air is cooler now as leaves fall and the hot tub at Zoe's became even more welcoming then the day before. Not able to stay away from the beach we went to North Chesterman's after a well deserved nap -- even Luna the dog welcomed the sleep. The waves at Chesterman were long and steep -- I was in a Valley surf boat taking some videos of the whole experience.

Throughout the day the big bird patiently waited in her warm den and when it came time to eat, we shared a meal of pure abundance -- all raised a toast to our families -- expressing gratitude for their generosity. Despite our turkey comas and drink, the lure of glassy wave rolling in in neatly spaced periods for some adventures called us back the next day...

Sea Kayaking from Alaska to Vancouver Island 2009

Hi Everyone -- Just a note to say we're back from an awesome paddle down from Alaska along the outer passage through the North Coast, Central Coast and Spirit Bear Region near Princess Royal Island and across the Queen Charlotte Strait. Possibly some Youtubes to follow over the upcoming months to be posted at: http://www.youtube.com/user/spiritbear26 a channel dedicated to self propelled nature sports.

August 31, 2009 (Port Hardy, BC)
We decided to end our trip in Port Hardy as opposed to continuing on to Campbell River or Courtenay -- in order to have a more sane transition back to city life -- with more time I would have loved to paddle into Victoria, but am also proud of the fact that I have paddled the length of the BC coast (not every cove and bay obviously) but the Alaska Boarder to Vancouver Island, around Vancouver Island and Haida Gwaii. Its a significant set of 3 long adventure kayak paddles with some pretty amazing paddlers, but after doing this I am humbled and can understand why it was so easy for aboriginal people along our coast to build the extensive trading networks from Mexico into Alaska.

Jonas was a great co-adventurer -- very easy going, excellent endurance and a good sense of humour. Jonas learned English from a UK style teacher and he had a fairly strong Swedish accent which meant her sounded something like a cross between the Swedish Chef and an English gentleman -- I finally managed to convince him to stop saying `bloody hell`` whenever he had a problem (e.g. with his infuriating camp stove) and to use either North American or Swedish cuss words. I know Jonas found me to be equally unusual -- he loved the fact that I had a craving for double Americanos and wondered how long it would be before I broke on our trip, as I didn't bring any coffee. I managed to keep things casual until Day 18 when we were about to arrive in Bella Bella and the first question I had was...is there an espresso maker in town?

Jonas, was a quiet paddler -- which meant many hours of meditative paddling. As time went on I learned to read Jonas`silences in responding to questions. The silence in answer to a question like "how are you do'in?" might be completely different from the one to a question like "did you catch the weather forecast?"


One example of Jonas' stoic character occurred at the start of the trip when he had to have a tooth pulled ...I used my multi-tool pliers, being careful not to shatter his tooth and gave him several Advil which he declined -- it was a challenge but after several tries I managed to remove his tooth. Okay I am stretching the tooth a bit, I managed to track down nearly every dentist in Prince Rupert on a long weekend and assisted him to get into a dentist chair within 24 hours of our arrival -- a near miracle -- and he was willing to paddle that day with a swollen face and four stitches in his jaw!

It was wonderful to have hours and hours of peaceful paddling each day -- so meditative and soothing to say the least (except for the first few days for Jonas) -- as anyone who has done long adventure paddles knows -- paddling is medicine for the soul.

Some of the highlights?

A 32 nautical mile paddle from Cape Caution through the Storm Islands to God`s Pocket and on to Port Hardy -- with a stop at Pine Island Light House and Scarlet Point Light -- along the way we met up with humpbacks, a group of sea lions who were curious about us -- at Pine Island -- and saw many orcas -- along with countless sea birds that are often surfacing up all over and diving for food.

From Alaska down to Port Hardy we saw thousands of salmon jumping everywhere - the coast is rich with salmon this year -- seeing salmon was an on-going experience. We often saw them jump within feet of our boat and of course wished we could just grab one. I’ve had seals and herring crawl onto my boat so to speak -- and was really hoping one of the salmon would have just jumped into my lap. Of course this is not an indication of the health of the fishery as anyone who lives along the coast knows salmon runs are collapsing all over - some runs are the lowest in the historical record and this is affecting the amount of food available to bears.

In the Koeye River estuary we were forced to leave the beach because of a large grizzly bear that was not at all afraid of us (as if they ever are -- but normally do not hang round while you are trying to unpack and make dinner). Apparently this one was an adolescent who's mom was killed by an older male -- the larger males had forced this one to the entrance of the estuary -- most of the bears were still in the upper portions of the river valley according to locals.

Yes we decided to camp in "Grizzly Bear Central" but as anyone who has paddled that section of the coast from Lama Pass down through the East side of Fitz Hugh Sound would know -- there are a lot of steep granite walls and not too many camping spots. Jonas insisted on not carrying bear spray as he felt that bears would likely not be a problem given his past experiences with grizzly bear cubs in the Rockies :/ ...but on this late dark evening he was quite nimble and agile as he got back on the water -- as the many bags attached to the deck of his boat seemed to indicate -- I never saw anyone get into a kayak that fast...I...however walked over to get my gear and calmly, with a the finesse of a highlander in a Stewart Tartan kilt ...looked around for a while at the bear and casually hopped into my boat...well after Jonas was half way across the cove ;) ... The next day we paddled about a kilometer or so up the estuary in hopes of seeing one of the 48 grizzlies that live in the area (based one DNA research of hair samples) -- but could only see areas where they had trampled grasses and wild flowers -- likely they were farther up stream at one of 3 lakes as the salmon hadn't started running yet.

Koeye River has an outstanding camp for Heiltsuk youth -- they have a long house, get to practice all aspects of cultural life from dancing and elder talks to fishing and cedar work. One of the great things that has happened is the internship of an elder -- who passed away recently -- in a mortuary pole in the area -- the first time this has happened in over 100 years and a significant positive change. The Heiltsuk also are doing extensive research and data collection as part of their growing responsibilities in managing the resources in their territory.

We had all of 4 days of northwesters on our back otherwise it was south easters, south westers or south...which translates as paddle hard into the wind. Only 2 low pressure systems with the associated gales occurred -- one resulted in a storm warning all up and down the centeral and north coast (5 meter waves on the off shore coast and winds up to 55 miles an hour!).

At one camp we spent 3 days waiting to get on the water -- for a 10 mile crossing more or less from Melville Island past Tripple Island Light, the international shipping lanes to Stephens Island (Prince Rupert is one of the busiest ports on the West Coast) -- this was one of 2 legs for us on our crossing of Dixon Entrance East -- a major challenge in its own right.

Speaking of crossings we did a lot of them and its a major theme for anyone transiting the outer passage -- we did 18 long crossings of 2 miles or more -- the most being 20 miles. Between Prince Rupert and Bella Bella we didn't have an opportunity to talk with anyone and the only buildings we saw were the isolated light houses at Green Island, Triple Island and Ivory Island -- these are (believe me) very isolated places. It was a lot of fun navigating - for example we accurately made our way through about 8 miles of fog between Port Simpson and the Haystack Islets and on the Alaska boarder using only compass and paper charts -- although we did bring a Oregon 200 GPS with all of the charts and topo maps of the west coast, we felt that it was a good practice to use our compass and paper charts most of the time, except from Bella Bella down to Vancouver Island where we mainly used the GPS.

I think we were lucky to have excellent weather paddling around the outer sections of Cape George -- the storm warning that occurred about a week and a half later would have made this a major challenge with the combination of swell, surf and wind (not that we would have paddled in a storm of course -- but would have faced a very challenging sea state afterwards).

I think the technical side of paddling open coast line with surf, boomers, surge channels and so on -- is extremely fun -- much like mountaineering, you are following a route through various hazards and it requires commitment and on-going assessment and risk management -- as you can often not just paddle into shore or out to sea. While we did not have much exposure to this form of paddling we did have the opportunity to do a number of fun technical paddles -- along the outer coast at various points -- Jonas led us through one section of technical paddling in Milibank Sound that was very fun.

The beauty of the wild BC coast cannot be under stated -- we are so lucky to have such incredible riches in our midst -- the name `wild coast` aptly describes what we saw -- there are many areas of the North and Centeral Coast that I want to return to explore more.

One night we were having dinner and saw a deer running in a bizarre and unusual way -- we realized that it was being hunted -- sure enough 2 wolves came along. It was wonderful to watch the whole situation -- the wolves working together, the deer attempting to escape by swimming off shore -- it worked and the deer likely lived to see another day -- though one time we paddled across a dead deer in the ocean -- just floating out of an inlet, it left me wondering how it met its demise.

One of the best experiences we had was meeting Leah -- she was paddling solo from Skageway Alaska and we paddled with her for 5 days -- she is highly skilled and is a really neat woman -- a guide in Mexico -- I have some photos of her heading out through a surge channel into some large swell as we paddled along towards Cape Caution in 23 knot winds (according to the nearby Goose Island Light wind reading) -- and a gale warning for our area. A few days before that we had the great fortune of being invited onto the Adenbroke Lighthouse. It was so much fun to meet the light house keepers at Adenbroke who treated us to great food, a warm room, and countless stories of the coast -- all the while the light, the stars and the sounds of the many humpbacks created the most soothing and life-affirming experiences we had. One of the lighthouse keepers (who's e-mail makes me laugh -- it starts off with here_to_save_your_drowning_ass@internetserver.com) was born on the light and after become a coast guard helicopter pilot decided that work at the lights was better and I can see why -- makes me want to apply! The other was involved in early efforts of Greenpeace and the Sea Shepard Society to end whale hunting and illegal International fishing in Canadian waters. Both of these guys were such a joy to meet and kept us talking for days.

Leah continues to paddle towards Bellingham -- as she is paddling in the steps of Betty Lowman (Carey) who was 22 when she rowed from Puget Sound to Skageway in 1937 in her boat Bijaboji -- named after her brothers -- Bill, James, Bob and Jim -- her and her husband's cabin on the West Coast of Haida Gwaii is still very much in tact as me and Ian used it on our trip around Haida Gwaii in 2006 and I believe she still lives in Haida Gwaii -- if you are interested she just published her account of her journey -- right now Leah is heading up to Cape Scott at the North end of Vancouver Island.

Both the inner and outer coast lines we experienced were wonderful with many changes in terms of micro climates and forest composition -- believe it or not the forests of the great bear rain forest are quite rich and diverse -- full of many animals, insects and plants -- at some camps we were eaten alive by small no seeums, at others by mosquitoes, and while paddling through on narrow passage, had the blood completely sucked out by flies the size of smart cars -- but for the most part the bugs were not any different than most other places along the coast.

We stayed at 21 camps between Alaska and Vancouver Island -- many were incredibly beautiful and others were extremely rough. One day we were surfing along with a 20 knot northwester and ended up at the perfect spot with the warm winds blowing in keeping the bugs at bay. Another time we stayed at a rough camp with the high neap tides coming in -- I miss read the tide tables -- accidentally flipping the page from Bella Bella to Bella Coola which sound the same -- any way the consequence was that high tide was not at 12:50AM but 2:15am and a higher tide -- with rain and wind and an ever rising flood tide we decided to move our tents to higher ground (me, I put my tent known as "Huba" on top of my kayak) until the tide turned -- it wasn`t so bad -- listening to music`(Krishna Das) on the ipod while drinking tea and occasionally hearing a grey whale or humpback nearby was quite uplifting. I found this trip to be much less difficult in terms of the technical side of things compared with Haida Gwaii or Vancouver Island but really rich in terms of the absence of settlements, the spaciousness and vastness of the many crossings, the beauty of the wildlife and the connections with other coastal travelers -- all of which I will remember the most.