Climbing Red Rock Canyon, Nevada

November 16, 2009
We started the day at "Red Springs" on our final day of climbing and then went on to "Tuna and Chips" – off of "Second Pullout - towards the end of the day."

“Physical Graffiti” is the sixth album by Led Zeppelin. It was a successful double album that went platnum over 16 times. Released in 1975, Physical Graffiti was inspirational on the 2 pitch climb we did of the same name. Moving up the easy and well-protected crack, over a small roof, I set up a belay on a small ledge 130 feet up where the crack ends, at the bolted anchor. Stepping to the right into the second pitch, Robin followed the crack coming up from “Over the Hill” – and leading another 160 feet. While the pitch I did was rated at 5.6, we both agreed that the second pitch was a little more difficult.

We did a rappel off to the side of the climb down into a gully then scrambled down to the base of “Riding Hood Wall” – aptly named after the beautifully colored rock.

Heading over to “Tuna and Chips” – where Robin led a number of run out sport climbs – we scrambled through a large boulder field. Along the way Robin – who could no longer be described as a Billy Goat and for reasons that are hard to fathom, other than a desire to switch from climbing to spelunking – squirmed his way 15 feet into the center of 4 huge boulders – through a 12-inch tunnel-like gap. With another 12 feet to go he became a human camming device unable to move either forward or back ward. After an exhausting 10 or 15 minutes he finally managed to chimney up to a wider gap and tunnel his way to freedom.

Soon we were climbing at "Tuna and Chips," finishing some final routes before heading back to camp for another fantastic dinner and plans to head into Las Vegas for a final day.

Climbing Red Rock Canyon, Nevada

November 14, 2009
We hiked out of Red Springs last night in the dark -- through large boulder fields towards the bright lights of Las Vegas. Thirty five years ago Las Vegas was just a whimper of light surrounded by wild desert. Now the boundary that separates the park from the city is just a short walk away -- near by are casinos and shopping malls. Creating another paradox between wilderness and the urban environment in a city of paradoxes.

Last night's dinner was bightingly cold, especially with wind chill -- despite the fire, hot curry and India Pale Ale -- everything froze up. I wore 4 layers of clothing -- no need to worry about buying more ice for the cooler.

Today's sun was welcomed, we were at First Creek Canyon near Mount Wilson. At the pullout, numerous pelotons of road riders raced by on their lengthy none stop rides through he dessert roads -- one had 40 plus riders -- I longed to join them.

We hiked in about 3 kilometers to the "Romper Room" area -- just next to the stunning "Amphitheater." Robin -- the billy goat -- clipped his way across the length of the amphitheater -- leaping across a 50 foot gap while I took photos of the rock (in the photo above you can just makse out Robin walking the ledge).

We worked the near by 5.7 trad routes, while watching a team work the 3 pitches of "Black Magic" -- a stunning 5.8 route that we hope to do on our next trip. The routes were stellar with a bit of exposure. Long climbing routes are so freeing and offer the most joy in terms of adventure - just pure exuberance.

We both agreed that our humble efforts at climbing have allowed us to truly appreciate the stunning accomplishments of the real athletes who practice their art on these walls and they do this in virtual obscurity from the public -- makes me wonder what climbing means? ...an awakening, a form of contemplation, a bold statement of the preciousness of life?

On the trail home we came across a spring -- lots of small animals and birds near by. A small group of Burros appeared further on -- they were part of the settlement history of the area -- used to pack gear and supplies for miners -- and after they were no longer needed they were let go and became wild.

Climbing Red Rock Canyon, Nevada

November 12, 2009
Our 3rd day of climbing. Today, we're at "Cut Your Teeth" way up a canyon in Red Springs -- light rain last night and the sandstone is a bit crumbly. We're not sure if its just the route we're on or if its the result of last night's rain.

We're just practicing trad skills on easy routes. The weather reports are mixed: local reports say more rain, but NOAA (the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration) reports cooler temperatures and wind is coming. Rangers and local climbers say the rock is fine. We we're hoping for heat and sun after leaving rain drenched Vancouver Island -- the huge low pressure systems affecting the BC Coast are making their presence known here too. And, when it rains down here the rock is much less reliable (two thirds as strong) -- its both a safety and ethical issue -- in terms of damaging the rock.

Yesterday, we were at "Black Corridor" -- a popular sport climbing area. We we were on 5.9-10b routes -- I wish we could could say 5.12. Lots of other climbers are near by from all over the USA, Canada, and other countries. Best part was the 10b lead by Robin -- the route required some fun technical moves.

Red Rock Canyon is for the most part a 25 kilometer stretch of Aztec sandstone cliffs that towaer as high as 3000 feet. The area is the result of massive folding and faulting that occured over 135 milllion years ago. Within the area lay an enormous variety of climbs from short crags to 2000 foot big walls.

We met up with Matt and Laura in Black Corridor. Matt and I worked together kayak guiding 10 yeas ago along coastal Vancouver Island, he now lives in the Yukon with Laura -- visiting Red Rocks for a bit of sun and warmth.

Our first day of climbing was spent doing sport at "Magic Bus," along "Second Pullout." Lots of beautiful hiking on the way -- lots of wonderful scrambling amongst huge boulders and steep craggy areas also. These crags were overlooked in the early days of Red Rocks as the focus was on the bigger walls, but now the area is almost completely developed.

Red Rocks is the 4th most popular climbing area in the USA. Lots of tourists come by for a hike -- people looking for a bit of nature outside of Las Vegas. They basically drive along a great road ring that circles Red Rock Canyon and pull over along the various cragging areas. Some people just pull over to look out at the big beautiful red and tanned rocks -- where they can catch glimpses of climbers and scrambles alike.

...Robin is about to start a trad climb so I am off to belay now...

...that was a fun climb with lots of exposure -- we can see the city of Las Vegas -- an oasis of light with the Luxor's white beam shooting high into the night sky -- the sun light is barely present, but we still have a few more climbs in us. We'll be hiking out in the dark but the extra climbs will be worth it.