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January 22, 2010
Drove out to Jordan River with Gary for a late afternoon surf with a stop for a V0S 1N0 (aka a double Americano) at the Stick Coffee Shop in Sooke – it was about 10 Celsius, no wind, clear blue light, and the tide was high. Just two surfers out at the point break and one standing boarder who was getting really long rides.
Gary stuck to the near shore breaks next to the bridge footing. It was easy for him to catch short rides on steep waves and then hop the river current around to the start of the break again – like an escalator. He was paddling a new retro boat called the Remix – it looks like a creek boat but less volume and is meant to draw on old school features found in early 90’s style white water kayaks – with longer and rounder hulls.
I sampled everything the surf offered – the point break, the outer breaks and the near shore. The point break was firing off with some 6 footers and at one point I remember being inside a big curler, looking out through what appeared to be chaotic and confused but clear water towards the point where on-lookers stared out into the beauty and expansiveness of Juan de Fuca Strait – what feeling, being able to breath inside a wave – a great place to find wisdom, kindness and a sense of bewilderment.
Along the outer breaks I met up with Brandon who said he had been surfing at Jordan River for the past three years on a standing paddle board – the board is wide and long and the surfer uses an extended paddle for propulsion, steering and bracing. We talked while waiting for sets to arrive. Brandon talked about the changes he’d noticed in the area – the changing land use and logging in the area, tighter restrictions on access, relationships between different groups who surf in the area and so on.
Looking out long the length of Juan de Fuca Strait from the entrance to the Pacific Ocean back along the Olympics and down past Port Angels towards the East Juan de Fuca I felt at home. The snow line was clearly visible below snow-covered peaks.
Brandon said he wanted to be the first to paddle across Juan de Fuca Strait on his board and it made me reflect back on the crossing I did with Beth-Anne in 2002.